Thirty thousand feet in the air and it hits you: Is Leadville on that little map they’ll give me at the rental car counter? You look in the seat pocket ahead of where your knees should be. That map with those nice arcs from Chicago to London and New York to Los Angeles on it just won’t do.
There are three routes. One is a worthwhile variation of the first. The first is quickest and the least interesting or challenging.
When you leave DIA, you will be on Peña Boulevard. Stay on
it to I-70 West. Do not exit at the sign that says to I-70 at the junction with
E-470. This is a scam and will put you on a toll road to I-70. Stay on Peña
Boulevard; it’s faster, shorter and free. Head west through North Denver and
head up the foothills, down into Idaho Springs, up to the Eisenhower (Straight
Creek) Tunnel, down into Silverthorne, Frisco and Officers Gulch to Exit 195,
CO 91, the Copper Mountain and Leadville turn off. You will go up again to
Fremont Pass (11,318 ft), the Climax Mine (molybdenum) and Leadville. In town,
follow the jog over to Harrison Avenue and come on in to the Delaware Hotel.
This should take about 2 hours from the time you leave the airport. However,
the section of I-70 just west of the airport for about 20 miles can be very
slow during rush hour (4:00 PM to 7:00 PM).
A good alternative if you have a little extra time (about 15
minutes extra) is the famous Loveland Pass/US 6 alternative. Before the tunnel,
this was one of four (Berthoud (11315 ft) on US 40, Monarch (11312 ft) on US 50
and Wolf Creek (10850 ft) on US 160) high passes on major highways through the
Colorado
Mountains. Since the tunnel, I-70 has become the main east-west route
through Colorado. Stay on I-70 until just before the tunnel and take Exit 216,
US 6 West and Loveland Pass. Go up and up, around the hairpins, stay away from
the drop-offs, to 11,992 ft. There, you will usually find snow all year. Come
down the other side, more hairpins and drop-offs, long straights, Arapahoe
Basin ski area (usually closes around July 4th) and Keystone. This
pass is classic, historic and a great drive. Just past Keystone, look for the
turnoff to Swan Mountain Road and Breckenridge. It’s a left just before the
Dillon Reservoir. This is a nice little cutoff that goes up a hill just south
of the Reservoir (the Denver Water Department’s biggest storage unit) and gives
nice views of the water. There’s a stoplight at CO 9, turn right. Look for the
green and blue “Frisco” sign. There is a light soon after with various signs
before it indicating “Frisco Business Loop”, a Bike Path and “Main Street”.
Turn left. Follow it out through a number of stop signs to I-70 West. Go
through Officers Gulch and exit at CO 91, see above.
Longer in time and distance, but worth it, is this third
route. This will take 3 hours from the time you leave the airport without
traffic holdups. As above, exit the airport on I-70 West. Go through the Metro
area to the
point where the road starts to climb up the foothills. Exit (on the
right) to C-470 (a two-lane exit). Follow C-470 a few miles to US 285 South.
You will then follow Turkey Creek Canyon up into the foothills. Look for Tiny
Town which is just that. The scale is one inch to one foot. This road is being
widened which is taking some of the fun out of it, but then so does all the
traffic. If you catch it without much traffic, it’s still a good drive. Traffic
will thin by Pine Junction and Bailey and you will follow the South Platte
River to Grant. At Grant, look for the Guanella (11669 ft) Pass road to
Georgetown going north. Just past Grant on your right, you will see the outlet
labeled “Roberts Tunnel”. This is the outlet for the transmountain diversion
bringing water from the Dillon Reservoir to the Denver area. Continue on up
over Kenosha (10001 ft) Pass into South Park. Kenosha Pass divides the North
and South Forks of the South Platte River and was used by the old Leadville
Stage Line before the railroads came through. As you pass Como, look for the
Como RoundHouse and the Boreas (11481 ft) Pass road. This lovely gravel road to
Breckenridge is the old railroad grade of the grandiose-sounding Colorado,
South Park and Pacific Rail Road. This is a popular fall “look at the aspens
and railroad ruins” drive. Go up again on Red Hill (9993 ft) Pass into
Fairplay. As you come down, you’ll enter South Park again. The South Fork of
the South Platte River drains this huge park to the southeast. Continue to US
24 where you will start up Trout Creek (9346 ft) Pass and down the other side
toward Buena Vista. At Johnson Corners, stay on US 24 North through Buena Vista
to Leadville (see Vol. I). You’ll be on Harrison Avenue when you turn to the
North in Leadville. Stop at the Delaware Hotel (on your right) and come in. See
you in Leadville.